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Full Circle

8/29/2016

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Another halcyon day in lovely Listowel.

We spent the day at Olive's house.  Now you've heard me describe Listowel as a magical place.  But until yesterday, I had no idea how TRULY magical it is for the people who live here.  Olive lives out in the country, where tree stands border waving fields, butterflies congregate in flying parties of color, and a certain dog named Holly keeps every living creature under control and off her land.

If there was a Disney princess who was an artist, then Olive is the princess and her home is the enchanted castle!  Filled with art and beauty, surrounded by her incredible garden and flowers, with a gorgeous, sun-filled studio right outside the back door.  We painted for hours outside in the sunshine, lost in the peace and beauty of it all.
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"Blissful Bog" - watercolor on paper, 6" x 6"
Around 3:30, it was time for the big match - Kerry v Dublin in the Irish football semi-finals.  If you're a regular reader of this blog (and yahoo!  thanks if you are!!) you know I don't ever write about sports.  My understanding of most sports is summarized in a t-shirt that reads: "Go sports!  Move the thing to the other thing!"  I don't know if it was the incredible fast pace of the game, Olive's enthusiasm and near panic from moment to moment, its combination of football-soccer-basketball-volleyball moves or the Kerry banners waving from windows and cars around town, but I am hopelessly hooked on the Irish football.  Kerry made a good showing and the game was neck and neck.  Dublin won, but if there had been one more minute in the game, it surely would have been a tie.
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​There were brave young folks on the beach below the cliffs, some jumping off rocks into the chilly waters as gulls screeched and soared above .
We spent the late afternoon back on the cliffs of Ballybunion, where we spent our very first day a month ago.  While Olive sketched the soaring cliffs and Diane painted the shadows and light, I had a lovely photo session with some local cows.   They offered to be my life models for some sketching, and posed for nearly 30 minutes, calmly watching me watching them, my pencil scratching on paper in time with their gentle chewing.  Needless to say, I had chicken for dinner. :)
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At 7:30, just as the sun dropped behind the horizon and the light began to fade, starlings gathered at the cliff's edge, swirling and dancing in the sky.  The flock grew and grew, thousands appearing from all reaches of the horizon, then they dropped into the Nine Daughters' Hole, the sound of their wings filling our ears before they disappeared from sight.  Read more about this natural wonder here:  Nine Daughters' Hole.
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We ended our enchanted day with dinner in Ballybunion, where we stumbled upon our favorite musician, Mickey MacConnell, playing a set as we walked into the room.  Serendipity?  No, the magic of Listowel and of Ireland.  Well, and perhaps a wave of the wand from our favorite Irish princess, Olive Stack.
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Behind the Scenes

8/25/2016

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A Trio Of Tangles - pen and ink on paper, 7" x 10"
The sun came out again yesterday.  We were up early and walking along the River Feale, enjoying the light and shadow, well before it was time to open the gallery.  

The path along the river is behind the scenes.  Other than the river on one side and the high hedge (growing over the remnants of castle walls long ago), there is just a path.  A most delightful path, hidden from the roads and houses, hidden from the pitch and putt and racetrack.  

At the far end of the path lies the castle.  And next to the castle is the Seanchai - Kerry Writer's Museum.  Tucked into an office behind the scenes in the museum is a lovely lass named Maire Logue.  Maire is married to a Logue, and from the moment I met her, she seemed like family to me.  After a lively conversation, we exchanged contact information and she offered to help trace my own Logue lineage.  I am on the hunt now for some documents to send her, and the prospect of tracing my ancestors'  path back to Ireland has me delighted and (you guessed it) a little weepy.

Check out the writer's museum here: Kerry Writer's Museum.
As we headed back to the gallery, we admired the Tidy Town workers, busy making streets shine again after the previous day.  Listowel is recognized as a "Tidy Town" in Ireland, and it is clearly a well-deserved title.  Bands of workers in reflective vests with little carts are up early in the morning, working behind the scenes while others sleep.  My hat's off to these folks, who joyfully clean up what evening revelers have left behind.  I wish the Tidy Town brigade would come to south Florida.

The day was busy tidying our own space after the prior night's show, sweeping up the last whisper of flowers from the garden now puddled on the floor.  A bevy of folks on holiday streamed through the gallery all afternoon, seeking a print to remind them of the beach at Ballybunion.

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The evening was spent at John B Keane's for Pub Theater, my very last Pub Theater night for this month.   Now I could regale you with the incredible poetry, theater, music and comedy which filled our hearts and lifted our voices in song.  I could say again how deeply Diane and I have come to respect and appreciate the spirit of Ireland reflected in these nights, and how simultaneously joyful and teary they make us.

But you've heard all this before.  

​There is something else that goes on at Pub Theater, equally remarkable.
Behind the counter last night were two lads, Laney and Mamie, I believe both granddaughters of John B Keane.  Always smiling, engaging, with shop face on no matter how large or unruly the crowd.  We watched them juggle empty glasses and full, orders and euros, criss-crossing each other behind the bar in a well choreographed dance all night.  They never forgot an order and the smiles never left their faces.  They paused graciously to pose for this picture, then picked up right where they left off in a glorious pub ballet. Though they are behind the scenes on Pub Theater night, they keep the night flowing smoothly and patrons content.  I believe John B would be so proud of them.  
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I'll miss these nights and the stellar folks that make it happen.  But with ballads and poetry tripping lightly through my head, and treasured CDs from Mickey MacConnell stashed in my bag, I am ready to take a bit of magic home with me, enough to hold me over until the next time.

But it's only Friday!  Not time to leave yet.  We're off to the farmer's market and an Irish breakfast at the local bakery, where we've been told "Beans on Toast" is the way to go.


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A Party and Pepper Sauce

8/25/2016

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"Sunset at Sid's" - watercolor on paper 4" x 10"
It was one more incredible evening.

As we prepared for our big opening, I took this picture of Diane.  She was looking out over our exhibit in the gallery, leaning against the wall in her cowboy boots.  It was a little wistful.  The empty gallery before the show, Diane in the shadows, the work of 3+ weeks surrounding her.  Poetic, somehow.

It is quite an emotional thing to look at all the art we created since our arrival.  Each one has a story.  And in telling those stories to interested viewers last night, we became even more a part of the fabric of Ireland, the land of storytellers, writers and poets.  

Our hearts were touched by each of the familiar faces in the gallery for our unveiling.  People who were new to us just weeks ago, now dear friends and sweet supporters.
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There were red dots, sure (and we are incredibly touched and grateful for them!), and wine and soft music, laughter and great conversation.  There were also tears (mine, of course, mush that I am) and a few ribald jokes (Damian's of course, who else? ha ha) and a young patron named Millie who charmed me to bits.  

Thanks to Olive's gracious flexibility in allowing us to take over the gallery and drag every studio easel down the stairs, we were surrounded by our own artistic views of Ireland and by the people we've grown to love, a bubble of sweetness and connection.


When the last art enthusiast had gone home, we headed out to a delicious meal at Eabha Jones .  This had been our first taste of Ireland on our arrival day, and it was just perfect to celebrate our opening there. Check out rave reviews of this restaurant here: Eabha Jones.  

This is where Olive introduced me to my new obsession: pepper sauce.  I will have to put it on Taytoes and Winegums, it's that good.  And in a surreal nod and wink from the universe, the music at the restaurant included "Sweet Home Alabama" and other odd bits that reminded us of the eclectic playlist Damian Stack uses on his tours.  
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We've got days left for painting and a few supplies to do it with.  There are still sights to be seen and things to be done.  I won't start with the ugly crying yet (with all credit to Emily Andress for coining that most appropriate phrase!) but I feel it coming - this place has taken a piece of my heart.

The exhibition of new works by Diane Pike and Jen Walls will be on display through Saturday at the Olive Stack Gallery on Main Street in lovely Listowel.
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I Want to Play the Bodhran

8/24/2016

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I continue to be delighted, charmed and enchanted by every single thing here.

After three weeks, we've fallen into a pattern of painting, eating delicious fresh food, evening entertainment and falling into an exhausted sleep. Packed within our days are hundreds of stellar moments.  From the delightful student who said "cheers" to everything (I love that!  How sunny and fresh!) to another who was a musical theater buff and also a fan of Portlandia.  And one who bought the house of her grandmother, next to her auntie's house, a quick walk through the gate away.  I am charmed.

Diane painted along the cliffs of Ballybunion last night as I was tangling botanicals in the studio with incredibly talented artists.  We converged at John B's for pub theater, and it did not disappoint!
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"Catch a Falling Star" - mixed media on reclaimed wood
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Dave O'Sullivan was in mighty form playing the bishop in a moving act from "The Field."  He's also an all-around nice guy, willing to rescue ladies from unwanted attention and put up with our enthusiastic photos.  Well done, Dave!  We appreciate you!

Mickey MacConnell  was in pure voice, playing a song we hadn't heard before about 911.  A tribute to the many firefighters climbing the tower stairs who were Irish, it brought tears to my eyes.  A somber connection between our countries, and a beautiful song as well.
There were new bits from Billy Keane along with our favorite, "The Star Man", and the passionate voice of Owen Hand filling every corner of the room.  Visitors from near and far joining in to sing the pub anthem, holding hands with strangers and friends in a quirky and precious moment of connectivity.  I've described these evenings more than once, yet no words do them justice.  

After the main event was over, a  group of young musicians began playing, and I fell in love with the bodhran.  It's likely the first love of every tourist to Ireland, and yet I am under its spell.
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We'll be spending the day setting up for our art reception this evening.  You'd think this would be the "main event" for a couple of artists spending a month in Ireland. There is so much more to this adventure than the art.  The art, the blogs - they are a small attempt to convey the magic of a place far away from our daily lives, where we are now right at home, where "everybody knows your name.  And their always glad you came. "  Cheers.

"Catch a Falling Star" is the final piece of mixed media on reclaimed wood from the Jeanie Johnston replica ship.  It will be on display this evening, from 6-8 pm at Olive Stack Gallery. 
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It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad Night!

8/23/2016

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Last night we had a gastronomical adventure.  A night of cooking, nutrition, conversation and connection at Nourish By Nature, with hosts Sid and Angela.

Now I've mentioned before how well the Irish do things - driving, conversation, hospitality, entertainment...and now I will add dinner to the list.  All aspects of dinner.  From the prep to the conversation, the presentation to the dessert - it was a stellar night.

Let's clear up the nomenclature first.  Our usual American adjectives, used to describe things we really like, "outrageous!" or "awesome", may mean something entirely different here.   So our ever patient new friends gave us a crash course in Irish compliments.  The highest forms of praise would be to call something "class" or "mad", or to be "mad" for something.  We are MAD for Sid's cooking.  It's CLASS!

We also learned that "pibs" are seeds, and "streaky rashers" are bacon.  We never really learned what blood pudding is, probably because we truly didn't want to know. :)
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Welcome Committee - watercolor on paper, 9 x 12
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Sid is a powerhouse of information.  A nutritional expert and chef, he teaches how to cook food that nourishes your body while completely satisfying your tastebuds.  We requested a dairy-free night, and could hardly believe the incredible creamy, rich foods he created.  Gluten-free paleo breads with protein-rich dips, fresh and easy vegetable soup, potato and smoked salmon cakes with pickled vegetables on rocket (arugula). Those were just for starters.

We were sprinkled with cooking tips and nutritional tidbits like toasted nuts on fresh pea soup.  By the time the main course was ready (stuffed pork fillet rolled in bacon and drizzled with bone broth gravy and rhubarb compote) we were committed to pursuing healthy, delicious cooking at home.

Now the night wasn't all serious instruction and fancy silverware.  The jokes were flying amongst the students (99.9% of which cannot be repeated here!), the dog and cats frolicking outside the kitchen near the chickens, and a gorgeous sunset sent us all scurrying outside just before the rain arrived.
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By the time the gluten-free almond cake drizzled in dark chocolate was served, we were all purring like the kittens outside.  When we anticipated a food coma for the rest of the evening, Sid assured us that would not be the case.  The type of food served, in the order it was served, insured no bloating or excessive fullness.  To our delight, he was absolutely right. 
Now if this blog post has made you hungry for decadent food, craving the ability to eat rich, deeply satisfying flavors while making your body stronger and healthier - check out Sid and Angela's website here: Nourish By Nature.  And when you're in lovely Listowel (which you must be at some point - you know you want to!) book a night with Sid for yourself and your five best friends. It will forever change the way you view your food, and your tastebuds (and your friends) will thank you! 
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The Bog (Really!)

8/20/2016

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On Friday,  we hiked to the bog.

This time, we actually arrived at the bog, but only because we decided not to take our art supply packs.  Otherwise, we would have stopped again before we ever got there, enchanted by the meadows along the path.

There is some conjecture as to how far we actually hiked.  Our theory was we walked eight miles.  Chances are it was more like four.  But it felt like eight, and so that's what we're sticking with. :)

The Sive trail begins with a walk through a meadow.  Lightly mown trail, uneven and soft.  This is where we stopped the last time.  The trail continues along partially paved back roads lined with blackberry bushes and wild roses.  The black berries were delicious and easy to reach. 

So my favorite movie of Ireland is "P.S. I Love You", which to this day makes me grab a box of tissues from the first scene.
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"Abstract Landscape, Ireland" - watercolor on paper
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And as we made the turn onto the back roads, I felt immediately transported into the movie, with rolling hillsides and gently curving one-lane roads. I fully expected Hillary Swank to be strolling down the lane and meet her true love.  The countryside here is truly just like you see in the movies.

The bog is an integral part of life here in Listowel.  Most families have their own plot of bog land, and it is an annual tradition for the family to gather at the bog and cut and stack the turf.  Once dry, the turf is used for heating in the winter.

You might be wondering just exactly what a bog is!  Check out this link for more info: Ireland's Peat Bogs


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There were cows along the way, who would flock to the fence and low at us as we stopped to take photos.  True grass-fed animals, with green food as far as the eye can see.

It was a much longer walk than we anticipated (either that or we are really out of shape from eating beef pie and drinking Guinness!), and we were two tired artists when we finally arrived back at the flat.

​Though there were no castles or towering ruins along the path, this was the most amazing walk, saturated with fresh air, verdant landscape and rolling clouds. We will return again, this time with art packs in tow.
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Roses and Ceili Dancing

8/19/2016

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Ceili Rose - mixed media on reclaimed wood
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It was a beautiful night for a preview show.

The gallery was sparkling bright, every light perfectly illuminating the garden of art on the walls.  The wine glasses glimmered and the ladies were dressed to the nines.  Soft music surrounded the viewers, setting a mood which encouraged lingering and enjoying each piece of art.  And they did.
But guests were also faced with a big quandary - how to choose.  Each one would settle on a favorite piece, then say "oooooh, but THIS one" when they turned to the next. And again to the one after that.  And so on. Until the viewing became a kind of dance from one piece to the next, in a whirl of delight and oohs and ahs until they began again with the first piece.  

Several of the pieces, based on the lovely fucshia plant, were named for dances, including the Ceili (pronounced kay-lee) a form of Irish folk dancing.  And the art and the event formed a dance of its own under the magic of a full moon.
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This was also the day of the Roses of Tralee (check out this Irish festival here: Rose of Tralee)  and the town was filled with beautiful Irish lasses in gorgeous hats and gowns, accompanied by handsome young men in suits.  We were lucky enough to get a sneak peek at the roses as they learned some dance steps inside St. John's Art Center.

The Horseshoe Bar across the street welcomed the Roses with red velvet ropes and a window filled with flowers.
Across the corner at Chic Boutique, a window filled with elegant hats (just in time for September's race week) mirrored the Roses as they walked along the sidewalk with their escorts.  The sight of the Roses reflected in the window of finery called each passing lady to pull out her best dress and join in the festivities.

As the preview evening wound down to a close, I realized each of the guests was a beautiful flower of the human sort, gathered together in a bouquet wrapped in moonlight and magic.
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Today's piece, "Ceili Rose", is the last of the works on large pieces of wood from the replica ship Jeanie Johnston.  How serendipitous that she was completed on this day, dancing her way to the moon and back again...
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Love in the Mist

8/17/2016

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It's here again - the full moon.  The majesty and mystery of the giant orb in the sky, smiling down on lovely Listowel (and the rest of the world).  It inspired this piece, which is painted on reclaimed wood originally from Turkey (thanks, Ann!!!)  

We painted indoors yesterday due to the rain, both of us developing a little cabin fever by late afternoon.  Thankfully, Olive had errands  and chores for us in preparation for the show which kept us happily busy for  part of the day.  The gallery is looking gorgeous!  Olive's show, previewing on a full moon, will emit a bright light all its own.  An auspicious beginning to a long awaited show.
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"Full Moon Over Listowel" - acrylic on reclaimed wood
Flowers, fresh from Olive's garden, brighten nooks and crannies in the gallery.  One of them, a purple and green feathery plant named "Love in the Mist", is exactly perfect for the weather and the town.  Misty and green, with bright spots throughout.  Soft and beautiful, like the generous and loving people of Listowel.  Check out this lovely plant in a time lapse video: Love in the Mist. 

As we chatted with Olive at the end of the day, learning the story behind each piece of art in her new collection, I was struck again by the interconnectedness of people here.  A place where folks still give their neighbors cuttings and seeds, where the irises blooming outside your window are likely from your mum's garden. Where fuchsia dances along winding lanes from your cottage to your neighbor's gate, and the whispering white roses began as cuttings from friends long gone.   These moments led to the inspiration for Olive's new collection of work, and it is truly an art garden of love. 

As I glance at the mound of art I have created so far, and the pieces in process on my work table here, I can see already the subtle changes taking place as my own heart melts into the love in the mist that is Ireland.  
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Fish, Fish I Got My Wish

8/16/2016

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Stained Glass Study - watercolor on paper, 4" x 10"
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St. John's II - watercolor on paper, 6" x 6"
The second beautiful day in a row here.  It was paint o'clock at 8 am.  Perfect light, but we chose a street corner which was a bit busy.  Farm tractors and big trucks barreling around the corner just six inches from the end of the sidewalk. Who knew painting could be so perilous?  This morning's painting wasn't great (and I am blaming it on the hazardous conditions!) and so I am posting these two pieces instead.  "Stained Glass Study" was inspired by a window in the church we visited in Dingle.  "St John's II" is my second time painting one of the blue doors of the local church, whose shadows dazzle and enchant us each morning.

Yesterday I threatened to beg for wood in the town square.  And guess what? The local wood angel, Ann, appeared with more reclaimed wood!  Huzzah!  It's like Christmas every day here!  I am busy disassembling and sanding the wood, preparing the pieces for magic.
Not every day can be a touring day...so we got busy with the business of art.  Preparing for Olive's big exhibition this Friday evening (and it is so lovely!  I cannot gush enough about her new body of work.  It is gorgeous!), and also beginning the plans for our own little show, which will take place next Wednesday.  Yes, it is already time to think about the end of our time here (cue loud sobbing and gnashing of teeth).

The Twisted Chickens workshop will make its Irish debut this Saturday, and Tangled Botanicals next Tuesday.  I am so excited to start a band of Irish rebel doodlers! 

We ended a very productive day with our favorite pub theater at John B Keane's.  It is the anniversary of Mary Keane's passing, but the show went on, "shop face" for everyone.  Mickey MacConnell played a song new to us, "The Leaving."  Here in Listowel, young men and women receive results of exams today which will determine their futures, many of them leaving to pursue higher education or apprenticeships. Today, my son moves into his dormitory at the University of Florida, and Mickey's song had me in tears from the first line.

But there were many lighthearted moments as well, including a gregarious Australian whose accent was lovely but a bit confusing amidst all the brogue, a muralist from New York who was enjoying her first taste of Guinness, and a fantastic performance from "The Field" in which the actor, playing the bishop, had Diane and I nearly confessing to a fictional murder.

I've rambled on a bit in this blog today.  But let me leave you with this:  we've been to pub theater time and again, sometimes to hear the same bits and songs.  And with each telling, the stories get better, the jokes are funnier and the songs more moving.  Because we are changing - becoming a part of the landscape, a part of the story, and because we now know (almost) all the words.  This place has changed me, and I am so grateful.
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Of Lads, Boots and Bonnets

8/15/2016

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"How About Mary?" - mixed media on reclaimed wood
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The first of the large pieces on wood from the replica Jeanie Johnston ship.  The dress is made of watercolor painted rice paper collage.  Acrylic, charcoal and china marker used for the rest of the piece.  And she so makes me smile!  Again, huge thanks to Ann for providing the wood!  Only one piece remaining to be painted.  I may have to start begging for wood in the town square.

Yesterday was halcyon.  Sunny, clear, breezy and warm.  We stashed away our raincoats and sweaters, and made every excuse to go outside.  So when local legend Damian Stack asked if we wanted to go touring, we didn't hesitate.  Diane threw her painting gear in the "boot" (the trunk) just in case it became paint o'clock.

First stop, a local store where Winegums were on sale.  Second stop, a famine cemetery which I previously saw at night, this time made perfect for photos by the setting sun.  
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From this point forward, the next three hours were a blur.  Careening around blind curves at a million kph as we chased the sun once more, we leapt in and out of the car for pictures, dazzled by the shadows of 16th century castles and churches.
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Another stop for "Taytos" - a cheese and onion potato chip that is wicked nasty and yet delicious.  Our guide said "hello" to every person inside and out of the shop, with a smile and a conversation for each.  Then "come on lads, we're off" as he ushers us back into the car.

We're getting used to being called "lads", which is a genderless term over here. Somehow it makes me feel tough and scrappy - perfect for Taytos and Winegums.
A brief tutorial on car parts as we zipped toward Lislaughtin Abbey - learning about "boots" and "bonnets".  Damian telling Diane she locked his keys in the trunk at one stop.  Ever the prankster.  We'd seen the Abbey before, but on a rainy day.  This time we were dazzled by the sun's glow through pane-less windows, mimicking the stained glass which was there long ago.  Read more about the abbey and about Ballylongford village here: Irish Treasures
There was only one other person on the abbey grounds.  Of course, our guide knew her by name.  Helen, a photographer who makes postcards, showed us some of her tricks of the trade and gave us a handful of her beautiful cards.  Sweet!

We followed her to a local pier, just in time to catch the most brilliant sunset we've seen since our arrival.  
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We had little time to spare if we were to catch the sun from up high, so we hopped back in the car and sped up the mountain toward Ballybunion.  Under a nearly full moon, on a clear night, with the sounds of Lorne Green singing "Ringo" as our soundtrack, we made it to the cliff side to view the last of the sun. With lighthouses winking and wind whipping, we said goodbye to the day and sighed with delight.
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Here's the blue wild, where
tiny dreamers ride beasts, speak
​ birdsong, hold the moon.

(by poet Mary W. Cox)
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​Art prints available on request
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